Woodworking Plans

🔥+ Woodworking Plans 04 Jun 2020 So to make things a little easier I just used their plan. Any time I'm ... With the lower frame complete I cut the plywood panels to size. I used 3/4” ...

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Introduction: My Foam Built Micro Camper

By Todd W Meyer
About: I''ve decided to build a hard shell camping trailer that will give me the maximum amount of interior room possible and still fit in my garage.

I want it to be light weight, well insulated against the heat and cold, and I want to pack as much function and comfort into it as possible. I want to be able to keep my camping gear right in the trailer in the garage. When we decide to go camping it should take a minimal effort to load and go.

I don''m camping, especially if it happens to rain...

We''t even buy a basic floor plan without a bathroom. We could go with a pop-up, but that''m building a Foam based Teardrop inspired micro camper.

That''m becoming kind of a "" or at least a "" inspired builder and this is my project....

My goal is to keep the cost (including specialty tools) to $3,500 or less and have the camper completed by mid July 2016 for our annual family camping trip. This is also supposed to be a hobby project that I enjoy.

OK, update - My original goal of mid-July 2016 has come and gone. You can read about some of the issues I ran into last summer centered around ordering a custom built door in the project delay section. I took several months off to fish, hunt and spend time on other things since camping season had really come and gone. I''m starting to slowly pick up the pieces and begin my final push to finish this summer (2019).

12/19/18 - Things are moving once again on the build. see progress reports below...

3/25/19 - Other than some touch up the painting is done...

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Step 1: Choose a Trailer Frame to Build On.

I decided on a 6'' camper size. I''m going to need are running $600+ and they''m looking at more like $800+.

The solution was to try to find an old camper with a solid frame. After only a few weeks of searching I found this 1969 Apache pop-up camper (5'' floor size) for $200. I had to travel 2 hours away to make the purchase. The frame is in great shape and I think I can part it out to make some of my initial investment back. Thank goodness I made it home with no problems at all with the trailer.

I''ve got the whole winter to get this thing reconditioned so that I can build on it.

Step 2: The Deconstruction Process

There are two ways to go at this point. You can demo the trailer or deconstruct it. If you demo it you can save a lot of time, but forget about being able sell the parts.

Deconstruction is taking each part and component off one at a time. I chose to go this route for two reasons, first it allows me to sell more parts in the end, and second you can learn a lot about how they built it in the first place. Since I am not familiar with RV construction techniques I''s rather than refinishing the rusty wheels. NO GO. I found out after making a purchase (only to have to return them) that my wheel is offset rather than the new ones that have the hole dead center on the wheel. That was the restoration God''m trying to keep the height down so I chose 2x3''s. The original floor on the pop-up was just 3/4"" past the frame on both sides with no support at all except under the door.

Using my drill press on a portable dolly I drilled holes in the 3"" lag bolts with a big washer on the bottom to come up from the bottom to screw into the 2x3 frame above to hold it in place. I pre-drilled the holes into the wood to keep the 2x3''t want tires to over heat on a long hot road trip.

I made a cardboard template for the face of the wheel well and played around with the look, size, and function. You need to make sure you can get the wheels on and off easily if you need to. Once I had my final template I started cutting out my parts. I used 3/4"" roller. Use gloves, and work in a well ventilated area.

Once the inside and both tops were done with 2 coats of Herculiner I attached the tops. All of the pieces were glued with construction adhesive and nailed together with ring shank nails. I caulked the inside seams around the top once the tops went on. They were glued down to start with so no water is getting in from there.

Step 6: It's Time to Gear Up

In order to get started on the walls I needed to purchase a few new tools. Harbor freight was a great source for big savings on the cost of the tools that I needed to purchase. The basic foamie tools are a couple of good fine tooth saws, a long and short rasp (shaping tool) that works for both foam and wood, a good utility knife, a dry wall square, and a 4''ll also need a Warner 250 wall covering perforator if your going to do a canvas & glue exterior. lf you''t be completely enclosed inside the camper without properly venting it if you want it to work right and last any length of time. I chose a 5,000 BTU Kenmore, it cost about $115.

I needed the cargo doors, A/C unit, and windows early on so I could plan my wall rough openings. My windows ended up being back ordered. I should have ordered them earlier... Since I plan to make my own door I control the rough opening for that.

I''ve used on the project. I''S. I replaced the top boards on 3 of my saw horses with 6''s. Then I used 10 foot 2x4'' x 10'' sheets of foam, paneling, etc all upright so that it remains straight and out of the way.

I''ll build my rough walls by cutting the 4'' sheets down and joining panels by gluing them together using gorilla glue. Each of the rough walls will eventually be trimmed down to the finished size and shape.

Once all of the rough walls have been sized and shaped I''ve had 2 pieces in my garage left over from another project for years. Back then I only spent about $26 ea. It''t have the time or desire.

For gluing the paneling to the foam walls I''s.

I called again today to follow up on my windows and I was told that the trim rings are finally in. I''ve waited soooooo long for are so tight that they really don''m going to have to file them down. Frank refused to do anything to resolve the issue or reduce the price. This just confirms what I said earlier - BEWARE.

As I finish each wall I am dry fitting them to see what needs tweaking. I then set that wall aside and move on to the next. To establish and scribe the roof line I used a long piece of 1/4 round trim I made my measurements and taped the trim in the center and at both ends. The trim provided the natural arc I''m not real happy with the fit. It could be tighter. I decided to add some material back on and make the R.O. about an 1/8"" deep hole to receive the blocking and glued in the wood block flush with the wall.

The last step in prep on the side walls before paneling is to cut my support mini-beam pockets. I made a 1 1/2''m building a raised bed with 21 cubic feet of storage (both front and rear) underneath. At this point I''ll cut and dry fit all of the components.

I installed 12"" stick down vinyl floor tile to the floor area of the storage compartment. Total cost $11.25. This will make it easy to keep the storage area clean.

To prepare for the cabinets l added some base framing to support the cabinets and to give me something to screw into to hold them in place. l ripped down some 2x4s to make a straight 2x2. l ran the router accross the front edge to give it a trim profile. l used gorilla wood glue and 2""×12"" sheet of plywood down to make two 11 1/2""×1 1/2"" plywood. l cut them both to 33 1/4"" which gives me a 67 1/2"" x 2 1/4"" nails that l shot in on a slight angle to be sure nothing came through the top. The slats really firmed up the plywood and keep it from having any sag. I learned this technique from going to camper shows and looking under the beds and in the cargo areas. Most commercial built camper use 1/2"" plywood.

l used the excess plywood to build my drawer boxes. 19"" D x 6 1/2"" round over bit in the router to knock the edges off the top of each drawer. I then sanded each drawer inside and out with the palm sander.

To mount the drawers l purchased some 20"" gun nails to hold them in place while the glue set up. I built the night stand boxes using some leftover plywood, the finish size is 6"" long x 14"" high and a pillow is 3 - 4"" on each side between the mattress and the wall. Once I''ll attach the carpeting and run it over the front 1""step-toolbar""stepBody""step-tip""step-question""step-comment""svg-pdf step-download download-pdf login-required verification-required""course""step10""step""SELVM7BIQGUTJ6B""step-title""mediaset""no-js-photoset""Dry Fitting & Preparing to Attach the Walls""https://cdn.instructables.com/F15/8P51/ITRR4I3R/F158P51ITRR4I3R.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Dry Fitting & Preparing to Attach the Walls""https://cdn.instructables.com/FZM/EGN4/ITRR4I3S/FZMEGN4ITRR4I3S.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Dry Fitting & Preparing to Attach the Walls""https://cdn.instructables.com/FZX/LRCD/ITRR4I3U/FZXLRCDITRR4I3U.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Dry Fitting & Preparing to Attach the Walls""https://cdn.instructables.com/F93/2WNN/ITRR4I40/F932WNNITRR4I40.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Dry Fitting & Preparing to Attach the Walls""https://cdn.instructables.com/FX5/NLW7/ITRR4I4B/FX5NLW7ITRR4I4B.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Dry Fitting & Preparing to Attach the Walls""https://cdn.instructables.com/FHW/AQP5/ITRR4I4C/FHWAQP5ITRR4I4C.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Dry Fitting & Preparing to Attach the Walls""https://cdn.instructables.com/FU3/FL2F/ITRR4I4F/FU3FL2FITRR4I4F.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Dry Fitting & Preparing to Attach the Walls""https://cdn.instructables.com/F64/2698/ITRR4I4G/F642698ITRR4I4G.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Dry Fitting & Preparing to Attach the Walls""https://cdn.instructables.com/FHW/0RVC/IXUQCF7C/FHW0RVCIXUQCF7C.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Dry Fitting & Preparing to Attach the Walls""https://cdn.instructables.com/F0L/G6KY/IXUQCF82/F0LG6KYIXUQCF82.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Dry Fitting & Preparing to Attach the Walls""https://cdn.instructables.com/F6B/75J6/IY0FVAGN/F6B75J6IY0FVAGN.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""step-body""step-toolbar""stepBody""step-tip""step-question""step-comment""svg-pdf step-download download-pdf login-required verification-required""course""step11""step""SJBX5ZEISCAQIDZ""step-title""mediaset""no-js-photoset""Project Delay""https://cdn.instructables.com/FWU/SO5G/IT02IUEC/FWUSO5GIT02IUEC.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""Project Delay""https://cdn.instructables.com/FS2/YZ8P/ISZCTNCR/FS2YZ8PISZCTNCR.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""step-body""step-toolbar""stepBody""step-tip""step-question""step-comment""svg-pdf step-download download-pdf login-required verification-required""course""step12""step""SZQ77ZRISCBPC90""step-title""mediaset""no-js-photoset""The Door.""https://cdn.instructables.com/FCX/XGX9/IT02IV1M/FCXXGX9IT02IV1M.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""The Door.""https://cdn.instructables.com/FQO/SFWC/ISCBPC8G/FQOSFWCISCBPC8G.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""The Door.""https://cdn.instructables.com/FIZ/VFBW/ISCBPC8I/FIZVFBWISCBPC8I.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""The Door.""https://cdn.instructables.com/FI3/8QNL/ISCBPC8L/FI38QNLISCBPC8L.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""The Door.""https://cdn.instructables.com/F9R/TG9D/ISCBPC8O/F9RTG9DISCBPC8O.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""The Door.""https://cdn.instructables.com/F4N/2ATB/ISCBPC8R/F4N2ATBISCBPC8R.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""The Door.""https://cdn.instructables.com/FHA/05HF/ISCBPC8X/FHA05HFISCBPC8X.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""The Door.""https://cdn.instructables.com/FYR/LM49/ISCBPC8Y/FYRLM49ISCBPC8Y.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""The Door.""https://cdn.instructables.com/FQO/T5DC/ISYZYN8D/FQOT5DCISYZYN8D.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""The Door.""https://cdn.instructables.com/FLH/RQRP/ISYZYN8P/FLHRQRPISYZYN8P.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""The Door.""https://cdn.instructables.com/F4N/WQGH/ISYZYN8G/F4NWQGHISYZYN8G.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""The Door.""https://cdn.instructables.com/FLB/9UUT/ISYZYN8I/FLB9UUTISYZYN8I.LARGE.jpg?auto=webp&frame=1&height=300""step-body"" × 54"" wider and 1 1/2"" framing all the way around the door rather than just a single 3/4"". l then glued them together and nailed them with 18 ga. 1 1/4"" temporary boards in place at the bottom and center of the frame to keep everything square. Those temporary boards will come out once the trailer is completely framed/shelled. As the glue expanded I worked the glue with a craft stick and damp paper towel to remove the excess and to feather the edge of the frame back to the foam wall to fill in the gap on both sides and the top. By working the expanding glue this way it save alot of time later and it makes a stronger wal frame connection.

Step 13: Cabinets & Drawers

Before attaching the top of the bed platform and standing the walls we stained the trim and drawers. We put 1 coat of pre stain on and 1 coat of red mahogany stain on. We let the stain dry overnig

After the stain dried down good we applied 2 coats of polyurethane. l set up a paint lab in my basement since the temperature outside was cold. I didn''s because of how unstable they are. The last thing l need is to have roof issues because of twisting and bowing supports.

l am choosing instead to make a stable 2x2 by ripping down 3/4"" × 3/4"" nails. This makes a mini micro lamb beam. lt''m not sure we needed to do the entire wall, but sure as we hadn''d of had a wall drip issue. Remember your working with a finished interior.

We primed the plywood roof using an exterior primer. also made sure to prime the edge all the way around as well.

Step 15: Attaching the Walls

Woodworking Planshow to Woodworking Plans for As final prep l used my shop vac to clean all the areas that will be glued. l then took a damp cloth and wiped down the same area. l taped off the finished area inside with painters masking tape and news paper so that when the gorilla glue expands it won''s not going to be perfect, don''t want glue to get on them. Last we installed the back wall the same way as the front. 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A little filler and sanding and it''ll cover it with glue, canvas, and paint.

Lets talk about the electrical. I''ll have the A/C unit with the fan and l have 2 receptacles in the front and 2 next to the bed, and then 2 more in the storage bay. l intend to camp in State park campgrounds mostly and they have power. l have designed the system with a 2 breaker electrical box. l have a 30 amp shore power inlet on the side of the trailer that will come directly into the box, from there the 2 breakers will feed AC power to everything. Note that with an adapter l can run power in using a standard extension cord from the house or where ever l may be. Also l installed GFI outlets in the cargo bay since l may have a cord feeding something outside that could get wet. Safety first...

l purchased a Black+Decker power station. lt has a 900A jump-starter with built in cables, 120 psi air compressor, 500W power inverter, and 12V /DC outlets and USB ports built into the unit. lf l do camp off the grid l can use this power station. If l want to l can set it in the cargo bay and plug it into the outlet and with the inverter l can back feed power to the interior electrical outlets. Thats why l didn''bead''s hoping...

0
olddawgsrule

Question 9 months ago on Step 17

I''m thinking of Dura-bond.. How well did you compound stick? 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