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Home > Storage + Organization > Baskets + Catchalls > Fabric Storage Boxes with Faux Leather Handles

Baskets + Catchalls
Perfect Fit for IKEA Shelving
EDITOR: Liz Johnson

Woodworking Planshow to Woodworking Plans for Stash it. Store it. Hide it away! We all love to get organized… or at least we love to have pretty boxes, baskets, and bins that allow us to dream about how organized for 1 last update 2020/05/27 we could be. These gorgeous fabric boxes are a generous 13” square, which means they can organize a lot! The cool Dritz Faux Leather Handles make them extra easy to use – acting like a drawer pull when the boxes are used in a storage unit or along a shelf. Stash it. Store it. Hide it away! We all love to get organized… or at least we love to have pretty boxes, baskets, and bins that allow us to dream about how organized we could be. These gorgeous fabric boxes are a generous 13” square, which means they can organize a lot! The cool Dritz Faux Leather Handles make them extra easy to use – acting like a drawer pull when the boxes are used in a storage unit or along a shelf. 

These substantial handles are designed to work on multiple finishes, including thin wood and whicker as well as fabric so they come with Chicago screws rather than rivets. This type of screw has a center bar between the head end and the tightening end that is quite wide so the screw can attach through thicknesses up to ½”+. There’s also a thin, clear plastic washer included that helps stabilize the screw and protects the finish of the fabric (or other substate) at the back. Woodworking Planshow to Woodworking Plans for Installation of the handles easy; we walk you through all the steps below for both our horizontal and vertical handle placement.

Woodworking Planshow to Woodworking Plans for

Woodworking Planshow to Woodworking Plans for Foam interfacing (we like Flex Foam by Pellon) gives the box design its great structure, and in combination with the heavier canvas fabric for both the exterior and the Woodworking Planshow to Woodworking Plans for lining, the final thickness of the layers is just perfect for the depth of the Chicago screws that come with the handles. It is important that you maintain a similar thickness in your layers in order for the the Chicago screws to seat properly and hold the handles in place without any slippage.

The recommended foam style is a two-sided fusible, which allows an extra smooth finish to both the inside and the outside of the box. To maintain this smooth finish, as well as to make the project as easy as possible to construct, we worked with the interior and exterior panels as one fused unit, opting for visible seam allowances at the inside that are neatly bound with bias binding tape. 

Woodworking Planshow to Woodworking Plans for

Woodworking Planshow to Woodworking Plans for There are a variety of sizes, colors, and styles to chose from in this handle collection. We for 1 last update 2020/05/27 chose the 10” handles in black and the 5½” handles in for 1 last update 2020/05/27 black.5½” handles in black.There are a variety of sizes, colors, and styles to chose from in this handle collection. We chose the 10” handles in black and the 5½” handles in for 1 last update 2020/05/27 black.5½” handles in black.

Our classic gray and white cabana stripe is a decorating standard that goes with everything. If you want the same look, it’s best to run your stripes vertically, which means you need a wide width décor weight fabric, such as a canvas or twill, for both the exterior and lining. Both layers are cut as one continuous 53” panel. There’s a helpful cutting diagram in the instructions below.

Our Fabric Boxes with Handles Woodworking Planshow to Woodworking Plans for finish at approximately 13” square, which is a standard size to fit many of the popular box shelving systems, such as the Ikea units shown in the photos above.

NOTE: Supplies shown are for ONE box.

  • yard of 54”+ wide mid-weight canvas, twill or similar in a vertical stripe or other bold print for the box exterior; such as Premier Prints’ Canopy Twill Stripe in Storm
  • Woodworking Planshow to Woodworking Plans for yard of 54”+ wide mid-weight canvas, twill or similar in a coordinating solid for the box lining; such as Joann Fabrics’ 8.8 oz Duck Canvas Duck in Light Blue 
  • 1 yards of 20”+ wide, two-sided the 1 last update 2020/05/27 fusiblefusible foam; we used two-sided Pellon Flex Foam
  • TWO Dritz Home Faux Leather Handles or similar; we used both the 10” handles in black and the 5½” handles in black
    NOTE: If you know your box will always be used within a bookcase or similar (as shown in our photos), you could use just ONE handle on the front.
  • 1½ yards of  1” wide twill tape or similar for the top binding
  • ONE package (3 yards) of standard extra wide, double fold bias tape for binding the interior seams; we used white
  • Woodworking Planshow to Woodworking Plans for All-purpose Woodworking Planshow to Woodworking Plans for thread to match fabric, bias binding tape, and twill tape
  • See-through rulerSee-through ruler
  • Fabric pen or pencil
  • Iron and ironing board
  • Scissors
  • Rotary cutter and mat
  • Seam gauge
  • Seam ripper
  • Straight pins
  • Fusible seam tape (¼” wide) to help holding the top binding in place
  • Clips to hold the two-side fusible foam in place
  • Seam sealant for the screw openings
  • Awl for the 1 last update 2020/05/27 starting the holes for the handle screws for starting the holes for the handle screws
  • Small sharp scissors for enlarging the holes for the handle screws

NOTE: The Cutting Guide drawing above, shows you how we fussy cut our striped panels and how the individual foam panels are cut and positioned. We are indicating how to center the cut for the base; you can – of course – position the base to one side or the other in order to create one larger remaining piece rather than two smaller pieces. The important step is centering the stripe.

  1. From the exterior fabric, fussy cut the following:
    ONE 53” wide x 13½” high rectangle for the exterior sides
    ONE 14” x for 1 last update 2020/05/27 14” square for the exterior baseONE 14” x 14” square for the exterior base
  2. From the lining fabric, cut the following:
    ONE 53” wide x 13½” high rectangle for the lining sides
    ONE 14” x 14” square for the lining base
  3. From the fusible foam, cut the following:
    THREE 12¾” x 12½” panels for the three main sides
    TWO 6¼” x 12½” panels for the back side (which will then be seamed to create the final full panel)
    ONE 13” x 13” panel for the base
  4. Cut the twill tape into ONE 54” length.
  5. The bias binding tape will be cut to length during construction. 

Creating the main panel: exterior, lining, and fusible foam

  1. Place the exterior panel Woodworking Planshow to Woodworking Plans for wrong side up and flat on your work surface.
  2. Measure and mark for the placement of the initial foam panel; subsequent panels will be placed based on this first panel. Measure ½” in from the top and bottom (along the 53” edges) and draw parallel horizontal lines. Measure ” in from each side (along the 13½” edges) and draw parallel vertical lines.
    NOTE: You can certainly drawn in all the lines to make placement even easier. Follow the cutting diagram above, remembering that there is ¼” between the panels and ” at each outer side.
  3. Align a 6¼” x 12½” foam panel along the drawn guidelines. for 1 last update 2020/05/27 ClipClip in place.
  4. Make the 1 last update 2020/05/27 sure the foam panel sits squarely on the panel, ½” from the top and bottom and Make sure the foam panel sits squarely on the panel, ½” from the top and bottom and ” in from the side.
  5. With the panel securely clipped in place, carefully flip the panel to the right side. At your ironing board, and following manufacturer’s instructions, fuse this first panel in place.
    NOTE: Remember, you are working with a two-sided fusible for this project so your fusing must be done in two steps.
  6. Return to your work surface and place the next panel into position, using the upper and lower ½” guidelines and leaving a ¼” space between the panels. Clip and fuse as above.
  7. Continue in this manner, placing and fusing one panel at a time until you reach the opposite side of the exterior panel. The outer side edge of the final foam panel should align with the for 1 last update 2020/05/27 ⅝⅝Woodworking Planshow to Woodworking Plans for ” drawn guideline on the fabric panel.
  8. Woodworking Planshow to Woodworking Plans for When all five panels are securely fused in place, place the fused panel wrong side up on your work surface once again. Find the lining panel and place it wrong sides together with the exterior panel. All raw edges of both panels should be flush. Lightly pin the layers together around the perimeter. It is very important that your the 1 last update 2020/05/27 lininglining layer is flat and smooth. Fuse the lining in place, activating that second side of the fusible foam.
  9. Flip over the panel so it is exterior side up. Measure to find the ¼” space between the panels. You can also feel this space with your fingers when confirming the measurement.
  10. Using your ruler and a fabric pen or pencil, draw a vertical line down the center of each of these four “cracks” – these will become the four corners of the assembled box.
    NOTE: Remember, you are working on the right the 1 last update 2020/05/27 sideright side of your fabric; make sure your marking tool is one that will easily wipe away or vanish with exposure to the air or the heat of an iron.
  11. Attach a Woodworking Planshow to Woodworking Plans for Walking or Even Feed foot or engage your machine’s built-in fabric feeding system. We used the AcuFeed™ Flex the 1 last update 2020/05/27 systemAcuFeed™ Flex system on our Janome machine.
  12. Thread the machine with thread to best match the exterior fabric in the top and to best match the lining fabric in the bobbin. Slightly lengthen the stitch.
  13. seam allowance, stitch the center back seam. We continued to use our AcuFeed™ Flex fabric feeding system and would recommend this or a Walking or Even Feed foot throughout the project.
    NOTE: We say “approximate” on this Woodworking Planshow to Woodworking Plans for seam allowance, but if it is slightly more or slightly less, don’t sweat it. You simply want the seam to stitch right along, but not on, the foam.
  14. Woodworking Planshow to Woodworking Plans for If necessary, trim back the seam allowance to conceal the raw edges. Clip the tape in place.
  15. Woodworking Planshow to Woodworking Plans for Re-thread the machine with thread to best match the binding tape in the top and bobbin. Slightly lengthen the stitch. 
  16. seam allowance just slightly. However, the base panel seam allowance. You can fold in each corner at a diagonal, similarly to how you’d handle a blanket corner.
  17. Re- for 1 last update 2020/05/27 threadthread the machine with thread to best match the bias Woodworking Planshow to Woodworking Plans for binding tape in the top and the 1 last update 2020/05/27 bobbinbobbin. Slightly lengthen the stitch. If possible move your needle position to the left.
  18. Edgestitch the last portion, matching the final seam to the original for 1 last update 27 May 2020 seamseam.
  19. Carefully turn the finished box right side out and push the base down into the corners. The bound seam allowances will naturally sink back a bit between the layers of foam.
  20. Turning inside and out can sometimes slightly disturb the fusing of the fabric to the foam. Smooth and re-Woodworking Planshow to Woodworking Plans for for 1 last update 2020/05/27 presspress the box as needed to re-adhere.

Contributors

Project Design: Alicia Thommas
Sample Creation and Instructional for 1 last update 2020/05/27 Outline: Debbie Guild
Project Design: Alicia Thommas
Sample Creation and Instructional Outline: Debbie Guild

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